Visiting the city of Cusco and not immersing yourself in its gastronomy means missing out on half of the cultural experience. Cusquean cuisine is the result of thousands of years of mountain agriculture, combined with Spanish influence following the conquest.
The region is the birthplace of "superfoods" that are conquering the world today, such as quinoa, kiwicha, maca, and more than three thousand varieties of potatoes. Exploring Cusco's restaurants and picanterías (traditional local eateries) is a journey of intense flavors, ancestral techniques (like the use of clay ovens), and hearty dishes designed to combat the Andean cold.
For many international travelers, the idea of eating cuy (guinea pig) might come as a surprise, but in the Andes, it is a historical delicacy reserved for birthdays, weddings, and patron saint festivals.
In Cusco, the traditional preparation involves a wood-fired oven, seasoned with huacatay (an aromatic Andean herb), garlic, cumin, and ají panca (red pepper). The result is a very tender meat, with a flavor similar to rabbit, but with an extremely crispy skin. It is generally served whole, accompanied by golden roasted potatoes and rocoto relleno (stuffed hot pepper). Trying it is, without a doubt, a rite of passage for any traveler in Peru.
If there is one dish that represents the fusion (mestizaje) and identity of Cusco, it is Chiri Uchu. Its name in Quechua means "cold chili" or "cold food," and it is the flagship dish of the Corpus Christi festival in June.
It is a bold combination that brings together ingredients from Peru's coast, highlands, and jungle onto a single plate. It includes:
Tradition dictates that you should take a small bite of every ingredient at the same time so that the flavors explode and balance out perfectly on your palate.
Although alpacas are famous for their fine wool, their meat is one of the best-kept secrets of Andean gastronomy. It is a lean, very tender red meat that is practically cholesterol-free, making it one of the healthiest proteins in the world.
In the tourist restaurants of downtown Cusco and Aguas Calientes, you will find it prepared in various ways: from a juicy Alpaca Lomo Saltado to fine cuts of grilled alpaca drizzled with aguaymanto (goldenberry) or berry sauces. Its flavor is subtle and beautifully absorbs local seasonings.
The nights in Cusco are cold, and there is no better way to comfort the body than with traditional local soups. If you visit the San Pedro Market or traditional picanterías, you will be offered huge, steaming bowls.
As you walk through the cobblestone streets or stop at the viewpoints of the Sacred Valley (especially in the town of Urubamba), you will notice dozens of street vendors offering giant, steaming ears of corn.
The Giant White Corn of Cusco has kernels the size of a coin, with a tender texture and a slightly sweet flavor. It is served fresh out of the pot, accompanied by a thick slice of savory Andean cheese (queso paria). It is the cheapest, safest, and most delicious street food you can eat while out on an excursion.
Since the ocean is far away, the star fish of the Peruvian highlands is trout, which was introduced to Cusco's high-altitude rivers and lagoons decades ago.
The meat of the Andean trout has a salmon-like color and a very delicate flavor. The most popular and tasty preparation is simply pan-fried until the skin is golden and crispy. It is served topped with sarsa criolla (a red onion and lime salad) and accompanied by white rice, french fries, and slices of cassava (yuca).
Cusco has options for every budget. If you are looking for authenticity and low prices, the local markets (San Pedro, San Blas, Wanchaq) are unbeatable. Here, you will eat shoulder-to-shoulder with locals for less than 10 soles (about 3 dollars).
On the other hand, around the Plaza de Armas and the San Blas neighborhood, Cusco has developed an impressive fine dining scene. Many of Lima's top chefs have opened branches here, offering tasting menus that fuse French techniques with 100% Andean ingredients gathered from the surrounding mountains.
The primary culinary advice for Cusco is not about what to eat, but rather how and when to do it.
Due to the high altitude and lower atmospheric pressure, human digestion slows down significantly. The golden rule in Cusco is: eat breakfast like a king, lunch like a prince, and dinner like a pauper. Avoid heavy red meats or heavily seasoned dishes after 6:00 p.m., as they can cause stomach heaviness and disrupt your sleep at your hotel. Save the culinary feasts for lunch.
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